Barmbrack
This delightfully spiced fruit bread has been a Samhain tradition since Celtic times. Eaten around roaring bonfires, or left out in hopes of appeasing restless spirits, you can find this treat popping up in bake shops all around Ireland at this time.
There are many recipes, including yeast and quick breads. Historically it was made with “barm” or the foam from beer production. This was a common leavened before commercial yeast became readily available in the late 19th century. In fact, an argument could be made that “barmbrack” can translate to “specked loaf” or “foam specks”. Though the Gaelic name báirín breac makes a stronger case for the former.
The loaf is frequently used in divination as well. Many families would hide trinkets to see whose fortunes could be read. Common items include:
A silver ring: marriage within a year
Coin: good fortune or wealth for the year
Pea: no marriage
Stick: unhappy marriage or many disputes
Piece of cloth: Bad luck or financial missfortune
I don’t add these items to mine. I simply bake and enjoy. I will leave some out as offering on my ancestral altar. There will be a few slices around the table for a dumb supper. But mostly it will be enjoyed with a nice slathering of butter and feeling the memories of a people before me in my body.
Ingredients
400g/3 cups dried fruit (mix of raisins, sultanas, cranberries, cherries, currants)
50g/3 Tablespoons mixed candied peel (or zest of 1 orange)
1 cup strong black tea (I prefer an Assam for the malty flavor)
3 Tablespoons whiskey (optional)
450g/3 3/4 cups flour
7g yeast
250ml/1 cup milk (lukewarm)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
75g/5 Tablespoons softened butter
75g/1/3 cup sugar
1 egg – beaten
Method
Night before baking, place the dried fruit, mixed candied peel or zest, black tea and whiskey (if using), into a bowl and leave to soak overnight.
When you are ready to make the brack, grease a 9 inch round cake pan.
Sift the flour into bowl. Then stir in the yeast, cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar. Make a well and pour the lukewarm milk into it. Make sure the milk is less than 110F otherwise you will kill your yeast. Add the beaten egg and mix into a loose dough. Usually about 5 minutes on a dough hook, or a couple of minutes mixing with a danish whisk. Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place for about an hour to double in size.
Chuck in the softened butter and soaked fruit and give another mix until incorporated. Now is also a good time to add any trinkets if using, make sure they are well wrapped in parchment paper and evenly distributed in the dough.
Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C.
Place the now very soggy dough in prepared cake pan and leave to rise a bit more. It won’t double but should be a little puffy.
Bake for 50 to 70 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean. If at any point you feel the bread is getting too brown, tent with foil and drop the temp to 350F. This will add to the cook time but well worth the trouble. Sweet breads are typically done between 190-200F.
You can make a glaze with 1 Tablespoon sugar and 3 Tablespoons hot water. Just brush the top and continue baking a few minutes more.
Your friend,